Preheat oven to 325 F, and butter a 1-quart oval baking dish.

Cut off the base of the cauliflower, and cut or break the head into individual florets. Cut the larger florets in halves or thirds to create bite-size morsels. Parboil the florets, if you like, in boiling, salted water, but do not cook them for more than 3 to 5 minutes or the cauliflower will be mushy.

Arrange florets in a single layer in the prepared dish, and pour in the cream, just enough to reach about halfway up the sides of the florets. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Dot the top of the dish with bits of butter, and spread the grated cheese over the top.

Bake until cheese is brown and cauliflower is tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Serve at once with crusty bread and a green salad. Makes 4 servings.

PER SERVING: Calories 397 (80% fat) Fat 36 g (22 g sat) Cholesterol 123 mg Sodium 421 mg Fiber 2 g Carbohydrates 5 g Protein 15 g

SOURCE: Los Angeles Times-Washington Post News Service/West Coast Cooking by Greg Atkinson (Sasquatch, $35)