Here's what the cheese-loving French do with leftover cheese: They make a spread called fromage port, says the Mozzarella Company's Paula Lambert in The Cheese Lover's Cookbook & Guide (Simon & Schuster, $40).

"Just trim off [and discard] any dried-out or moldy pieces from all those little bits and ends of cheese you have in your refrigerator. Place 8 ounces of cheese in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade, along with 1 or 2 cloves of garlic and 1 to 2 tablespoons white wine, Cognac or cream. Add freshly ground black pepper or fresh herbs, if desired."

Process until smooth, then transfer to a small dish or crock. Serve immediately with toasted baguette slices. Or store in the fridge, where the flavor will intensify. Cover with a lid or plastic wrap.

Kim Pierce