Making Greek coffee isn't a matter of switching on a coffee machine.

To indulge in this centuries-old social tradition, you first need a briki, a small, deep, long-handled pot with a lip, made of brass, copper or (more commonly nowadays) stainless steel. In Greek families, vintage brikis often are cherished heirlooms. New pots are inexpensive – usually $15 or less for a 5-cup stainless-steel briki, but many are smaller and make two or four demitasse cups.

You'll need special Greek coffee, which is so finely ground that it's called pulverized or stone-ground. Aroma, Loumidis, Bravo and Venizelos are popular brands.

Balance coffee and sugar to your taste. Then cook the coffee three times without letting it come to a boil. Technique is involved, and there's no shortcut.

You may as well spend two bucks for a 4-ounce cup of Greek coffee at whichever festival you attend. You can be sure the person making it is not an amateur.

SOURCES: Tom Fox, Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church; Mike Molhoek and George Bogordos, St. John the Baptist Greek Orthodox Church, Euless.