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7 local experts offer their tips on enjoying wine
02:27 PM CDT on Thursday, April 24, 2008
Seven local experts dish on everything from their favorite sparklers to what to order with seabass and steak.
Wine director Fearing's at the Ritz-Carlton Dallas
Favorite sparkler when you're paying? Probably Vilmart & Cie Grand Cellier d'Or. It's just incredibly complex, rich and full-bodied. It costs $70 to $80 a bottle.
Favorite sparkler in the world? The most unique one I've ever had was Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Blanc de Noirs. It's probably $500, if you can find it. It's the only Champagne where the vines are still on their own roots, not grafted.
Something you wish more guests knew? That price doesn't always equal quality. And that trying something new is always fun.
Next hot wine region? Washington state is coming up pretty hot for syrah and cabernet.
Your definition of "plonk"? Any wine that is mass-produced without a soul.
What you'd drink (and eat) at your last meal: Probably an old madeira, and something that's a dark, rich chocolate. If I had to go out, that would be it!
He picks steak, she picks sea bass. What's the wine? There's no written rule. Of course I'll ask if they have a preference, but that's why I love half bottles!
What do you do when the diner makes a poor wine choice? I won't necessarily argue. If it's a wine they know they enjoy, they'll have a good time drinking it.
Sommelier French Room at Hotel Adolphus
Favorite sparkler when you're paying? Eric Rodez Rosé. He's a tiny mom-and- pop house, but his vineyards are still rated grand cru. The rosé for the price is spectacular: $110 on my list.
Favorite sparkler in the world? I lean toward the Taittinger Comtes. It's their big boy. It doesn't taste manufactured; it still has enough individuality that, for me, stands out.
Next hot wine region? Argentina. They're making better wine than anybody else right now.
Horror story from the floor? It'd have to be the classic first-bottle-of-Dom- Perignon-you-spray- across-the-table. The cork got away from me. It was a couple, and the spray caught both of them. You say, "Let me get another bottle and try that again," because half the bottle was gone before I was done.
Your definition of "plonk"? I've never heard the term.
What you'd drink (and eat) at your last meal: It would have to be Northern Italian, some sort of osso buco, a dish with big, heavy red meat, with a big, old barolo.
What are you drinking tonight? On a cold, rainy day, a big, jammy California zin, heading toward port but not quite getting there.
Most challenging request? The stupidest request was when someone had me decant a bottle of Sonoma- Cutrer Chardonnay.
He picks steak, she picks sea bass. What's the wine? I still go right back to, "What do you guys like to drink: reds or whites?" Nine times out of ten, they still like red even though they're having fish. The red-wine-and-fish thing is such a myth; it works beautifully.
More adventurous: men or women? Women. They're much quicker to say, "Bring out whatever you think and wow me."
James Tidwell
Sommelier The Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas
Favorite sparkler in the world? Probably I'd pick the 1976 Krug Clos du Mesnil. It's a great wine.
Next hot wine region? A place with amazing potential, not yet fully realized, is Greece. They make an amazing diversity of wines in all price ranges.
Story from the floor? I opened a bottle and there was no sediment on the cork. I thought it odd, but went ahead to pour, and nothing came out! I knew there was wine in the bottle, and the other sommelier and I just looked at each other. I excused myself and took the bottle away for a moment. It turned out the tartrates were so thick that when the cork was removed, they pulled away from the cork and clogged the neck of the bottle.
Your definition of "plonk"? Any wine that I don't enjoy for any reason. The context and relationships are what it's all about.
He picks steak, she picks sea bass. What's the wine? It depends on the cut and preparation of the steak, and on how the sea bass is done. Most likely, a pinot noir, or a Burgundy for a little more subtlety. The other option, of course, is for each person to have a half bottle.
What do you do when the diner makes a poor wine choice? My job is to recommend a wine only if they want me to. My job is to make sure you're happy. If you ask me, I'll give you my opinion and three or four options.
More adventurous: men or women? I find in general, that "adventurous" could be used to describe someone who trusts the sommelier to make good recommendations.
Drew Hendricks
Master sommelier Charlie Palmer at the Joule
Favorite sparkler when you're paying? I like rosé Champagne. Henri Billiot [rosé] would be one of my top sparklers.
Favorite sparkler in the world? 1976 Krug Clos du Mesnil
Next hot wine region? You see a lot of action from Greece.
Horror story from the floor? I was opening a bottle of moscato d'Asti at a table, and I had the corkscrew in and was levering the cork out. The cork popped, the bottle slipped out of my hand, and I caught it, but the jerking movement sent wine spewing a foot and a half above the bottle. It spewed everywhere, and it's sticky. ... It got the arm of my suit and my hand and my shoes. It was only on me, thank goodness.
What you'd drink (and eat) at your last meal: 1945 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée Conti. I'd maybe have some cheeseburgers or something like that with it.
What are you drinking tonight? Probably Mosel riesling, J.J. Prum, specifically Graacher Himmelreich.
Most challenging request? It doesn't have anything to do with wine. We had some guests who didn't drink, and I did some nonalcoholic food-and-wine pairings for them. You use things like those Dry sodas, and I also used ginger ale and some sparkling juices.
He picks steak, she picks sea bass. What's the wine? I find that pinot noir really works in that situation, especially the lighter style. We have a couple of unoaked pinots: One's the sancerre rouge, and also a pinot from Alsace.
What do you do when a diner makes a poor wine choice? I remove the glasses and take the bottle away and find something else for them to drink.
Master sommelier Pappas Bros. Steakhouse
Favorite sparkler when you're paying? I don't really have one; it depends on my mood. For not a lot of money, I would drink Gruet.
Favorite sparkler in the world? Krug. I'd stick with a vintage.
Next hot wine region? It's really, hopefully going to be Greece. I think the wines are great and the prices are fine.
Your definition of "plonk"? Hopefully, there isn't much left. It might have to be MD 20/20 at this point.
What you'd drink (and eat) at your last meal: A '93 Haut-Brion Blanc. I would just have a nice old, big Maine lobster, and that's it.
What are you drinking tonight? Probably a really good beer. I don't drink at home; it's too much like work.
Most challenging request? I've had people who want to put their red wines on ice, but that was their choice.
He picks steak, she picks sea bass. What's the wine? I'd probably go with a pinot noir – Ken Wright from Oregon, or something from the Ribera del Duero [Spanish wine region].
What do you do when a diner makes a poor wine choice? I'd look at the style of wine the host chose and try to recommend something that might be in a little different direction, but a similar price.
More adventurous: men or women? I think it depends on what kind of group they're with. Women aren't going to be adventurous when they're sitting with men. Women when out in groups might be more adventurous.
Wine and beverage director The Mansion Restaurant at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek
Favorite sparkler when you're paying? Egly-Ouriet Brut Grand Cru. It's $50 to $60 at retail, and it's just delicious.
Favorite sparkler in the world? It's got to be Krug Clos du Mesnil. That's the blanc de blancs, and it can fetch a thousand bucks a bottle. It's a Champagne-lover's Champagne, a very winey Champagne. It's luxury incarnate, and it's what I'd order if someone else were paying.
Next hot wine region? There are a number of emerging areas to watch. But I'm seeing a lot of movement in Argentina. And many of the wines are in the $20-a-bottle range, very affordable.
Story from the floor? I remember recommending what I called "a creamy chardonnay" to a customer, and she said: "Oh, we couldn't possibly drink that – we're both lactose-intolerant!"
Your definition of "plonk"? Anything in a frosted bottle.
What you'd drink (and eat) at your last meal: The wine would be a 1940 DRC [Domaine de la Romanée- Conti] La Tache. It's probably the greatest pinot noir vineyard in the world. With it, I'd want [Mansion chef] John Tesar's roasted squab with black truffles and foie gras wrapped in cabbage.
What are you drinking tonight? I'm off tonight, so I'm cooking at home. I think I'll have a verdejo from Northern Spain: Las Brisas, from Rueda. It's a white varietal that will go with a garlicky fish stew.
What do you do when the diner makes a poor wine choice? I start by complimenting the wine they chose. After all, it's going to be good if it's on our list! But then I'd try to gently nudge them into another area.
Paul Pinnell
Owner and general manager Dali wine bistro in the Arts District
Previously general manager of Nana at the Hilton Anatole, which became a Mobil four-star, AAA four-diamond restaurant, winning Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator and the DiRoNA Award
Favorite sparkler when you’re paying? I’d do the Bollinger Brut out of California.
Favorite sparkler in the world? It would have to be Cristal Rosé.….The finesse and delicate body of a rosé, there’s nothing like it.
Something you wish more guests knew: That a house wine does not have to be swill. There’s so much good juice out there.
Next hot wine region: Without a doubt, it’s got to be the Central Coast, the Santa Barbara region. It’s the most underrated area right now. Behind that, Spanish wines are coming on strong, and there are some great values to be found there.
Story from the floor: I was sitting at a table with my parents when the wine steward lost the bottle, and it went on the floor and under the table. We lost a great bottle of champagne, and everyone’s expensive bags and shoes got wet!
Your personal definition of “plonk”? Bottom line, any wine that’s not balanced and harmonious is plonk in my book.
What you’d drink (and eat) at your last meal: My last meal would be a re-creation of my mom’s Thanksgiving dinner. After all, Thanksgiving is the best meal of the year.
Otherwise, it would be a decadent progressive dinner with visits to savor memorable menu items from favorite Dallas restaurants. Either way, you could count on copious amounts of great wine!
What are you drinking tonight? Tonight I’ll be sampling gold-medal winners from The Dallas Morning News’ wine competition.
He picks steak, she picks sea bass. What’s the wine? Usually, one diner will say, “Oh, red is OK with my fish.” But if they leave it up to me, I’d get the gentleman or lady what they preferred, then I’d go to the cellar and open an appropriate bottle for the other person’s dish. I like to find the best wine by the glass. And then, more restaurants are offering half-bottles now.
What do you do when the diner makes a poor wine choice? The answer is advising them on a wine of the same price point but excellent quality. It’s up to the sommelier to offer suggestions to the host. Wine is a food product, and it goes through different stages — it might be experiencing bottle shock from being transported recently, or it might just be too young. I would rather suggest something that’s drinking beautifully right now.
More adventurous: men or women? I think women definitely have better palates. With men, it depends on their knowledge of wine. With other businessmen around a table, they like to go with a safe bet. Women are more likely to ask my opinion and try new wines; men are more creatures of habit.








