Raboso (ruh-boh-soh) is a red-wine grape grown in Northeast Italy's Veneto region. Its name comes from the Italian rabbioso, which means enraged or rabid. True to its name, the varietal has a highly tannic and acidic character that requires taming. It's frequently blended with other Italian varietals to lend structure and complexity. But with finesse, patience – and deep pockets – some winemakers produce noteworthy wines of 100 percent raboso.

During a recent lunch at Adelmo's restaurant, the Spinazze brothers of Santomè Estate in Italy showcased two wines from their family-owned winery: a raboso blend and a 100 percent raboso wine. The Moro '41 bears their father's nickname and birth year; it's a light-bodied red blend, made of cabernet franc, merlot and raboso del piave. Soft and balanced, it delivers pleasant red-berry fruit and a dry finish. It is light enough to serve on the patio in summer and would pair nicely with barbecue, chicken or salami. If chilled slightly, it could even work with fish.

The 2003 Santomè Raboso is made of 100 percent raboso. It is rich and complex, with layers of dark cherry, leather and spice. This is a big wine that pairs well with grilled steak and wild game. You can enjoy it now (decant it first to open it up) or hold it for five to 10 years. The Spinazze brothers say it will continue to soften and develop a spicier character as it ages.

The Moro '41 is $14.99 at Jimmy's Food Store, State Street Liquors, Pogo's and Meat Matters in Plano. The 2003 Santomè Raboso is $36 at Jimmy's Food Store; it's also on the wine list at Lola, Hector's on Henderson, Kitchen 1924, 62 Main and Bene Bene Ristorante.

Tina Danze