EVANS CAGLAGE/DMN

Tasters discovered that it's the sauce, not the type of meat, that matters in pairing wine with Thai food.

For this month's wine-food challenge, our panel tackled pairings for one of the hottest takeout foods: Thai. Once enjoyed only by adventurous diners, spicy Thai dishes have joined mainstream Chinese as a popular takeout option.

For Texans accustomed to chile-laced salsas, Thai's spicy heat poses no problem – until it's time to make a wine match. Some wines can't stand up to the heat; others fight with it. With that in mind, we dove into the challenge, ordering fiery curries and a chile-spiked beef. (No mild pad Thai for this crowd.)

After sampling 15 wines that cost less than $15, we discovered five outstanding ones that enhanced our spicy Thai meal. All but one were unanimous hits, and the latter had only one dissenter. For those willing to splurge, we've also recommended three budget-buster wines that fall outside our price range.

Tina Danze is a Dallas freelance writer.

Here's what we took away from our tasting:

Fruity, slightly sweet wines with floral notes worked well. Their sweetness toned down the heat of spicy dishes, lending a soothing counterpoint.

Thai food can alter a wine's character. It has something of a neutralizing effect. Since spicy dishes tend to dry out wines a bit, it's OK to go with a fruitier wine.

Sweetness alone doesn't make for a match. A Llano Estacado chenin blanc was far too cloying and lacked complexity. The best whites had body and depth; their bright fruit flavors were layered with the exotic spice and blossom notes.

Acidic, tannic, and herbaceous wines fought with the spicy dishes. For example, a prosecco and an un-oaked chardonnay that tasted great on their own didn't work with the food.

The winning reds were soft, fruity and light-bodied, with low tannins.

Proper chilling of wines is important with food this spicy. The cooler temperature soothes, offering heat relief. Even the pinot noir benefited from a slight chilling (30 minutes in the fridge); and a sparkling shiraz required more chill than usual. (After sampling it slightly chilled, we opted for a full chill in an ice-water bath.)

The meat choice – shrimp, chicken, pork or beef – wasn't a guiding factor in the wine selections. When pairing wines with curries, match the wine to the sauce, not the meat.

You don't have to order out to sample our winning wines with Thai food. The following restaurants allow you to bring your own wine.

Flavor Asian Fusion & Dessert Bar

(9220 Skillman St., No. 101, just north of LBJ freeway; 214-341-0244): This place has a buzz among foodies. Chef "Oudi" Utedpornratanakul is a native of Thailand, and his wide-ranging menu includes 15 authentic Thai entrées. The restaurant also delivers within a 3-mile radius.

Thai Noodle and Rice

(2634 N. Fitzhugh; 214-827-5828): This tiny, no-frills restaurant is adjacent to a laundromat, on the east side of Central Expressway. If you like your food spicy, emphasize this when you order.

Jasmine Thai Cuisine

(2050 W. Spring Creek Parkway, No. 206, Plano; 972-517-1677. Second location: 1116 W. Parker Road, No. 300, Plano; 972-943-8998)

This Plano restaurant has a big Collin County following that includes vegetarians and Muslims with special dietary requests.

Find wines under $15 to pair with spicy Thai takeout

THE DISHES

Yellow Curry With Pork, Green Curry With Chicken, Red Curry With Shrimp, and Chile Mint With Beef, all from Flavor Asian Fusion & Dessert

THE TASTERS

Anita Cook-Motard, Texas general manager, Glazer's Domaines & Estates

James Tidwell, certified wine educator and sommelier at Café on the Green, the Four Seasons Resort and Club in Las Colinas

Paul Pinnell, sommelier and general manager of Nana in the Hilton Anatole

George Howald, Serendipity Wine Imports

Blythe Beck, executive chef, Hector's on Henderson

Cathy Barber, Taste editor

Tina Danze, freelance writer